Few expected Maria Grazia Chiuri’s comeback so soon after departing Dior earlier this year. Last week, Italian house Fendi announced the Roman designer would return to the company where she began her career more than three decades ago. This time, she will serve the house as chief creative officer. Her first collection, Fendi Fall/Winter 2026-2027, will debut in Milan next February. “Her talent and vision will be instrumental in fortifying Fendi’s heritage, shaping the future
e future talent in the house and deepening our commitment to Italian craftsmanship,” Ramon Ros, Fendi’s chairman and CEO, said.
Fendi has been without a dedicated womenswear creative director since Kim Jones’ departure in October 2024, during which Silvia Venturini Fendi, granddaughter of founders Adele and Edoardo Fendi, took on dual creative duties.
“Against a backdrop of male creative directors, there was a groundswell of support for her return to the industry by clients and press alike,” Mathew Dixon, partner at DHR Global, told Inside Retail.
“She was the only logical choice for Fendi, already an alumnus of the brand and equally talented across accessories and ready-to-wear.”
A return to Rome
Chiuri’s connection to Fendi is personal. Chiuri, who is Roman by birth, has kept her ties to the city close throughout her career. Her final Dior show in May, a mix of cruise and haute couture looks, was staged against the backdrop of Villa Albani Torlonia in Rome.
It was attended by many of her longtime collaborators, including artist Eva Jospin and photographers Brigitte Niedermair, Brigitte Lacombe, and Maripol.
“Let’s not forget her final Dior show was a love-letter to the city,” Dixon said.
“The brand was a critical part of her growth as a designer. This inherent respect could be her greatest asset as she’ll want to embrace and elevate the Fendi house codes rather than insisting on a transformation in her own taste.”
Between 1989 and 1999, she was an accessories designer at the house, helping to develop one of its most defining creations: the Baguette bag.
Chiuri left Fendi in 1999 with her then creative partner, Pierpaolo Piccioli, for Valentino. When the house’s founder, Valentino Garavani, retired in 2008, Chiuri and Piccioli were installed as joint creative directors. Chiuri stayed at Valentino for seven successful years, helping to modernise its couture and accessories business while maintaining the house’s romantic DNA.
“I return to Fendi with honour and joy, having had the privilege of beginning my career under the guidance of the House’s founders, the five sisters,” Chiuri said. “Fendi has always been a forge of talents and a starting point for many creatives in the industry, thanks to the extraordinary ability of these five women to foster and nurture generations of vision and skill.”
Under LVMH’s umbrella
Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH, Fendi’s parent company, described Chiuri as “one of the greatest creative talents” in fashion.
“I am convinced that Maria Grazia will contribute to the artistic renewal and future success of the maison, while perpetuating its unique heritage,” he said.
Chiuri’s return to Fendi follows a nine-year run at Dior that cemented her as one of the most influential designers in contemporary fashion. Appointed in 2016 as the first woman to lead Dior’s women’s collections, she reshaped the brand through a distinctly feminist lens.
During her tenure, she collaborated with female artists such as Judy Chicago, Faith Ringgold and Mickalene Thomas, expanding the house’s narrative beyond Parisian haute couture into a broader reflection of global femininity.
“As the first female creative director in Dior’s history, Chiuri redefined who the customer was and grew the business by 400 per cent,” Dixon said.
“She instinctively creates garments that women want to wear and understands the modern luxury customer, something that Fendi really needs help with. Chiuri deals in reality, not fantasy, which is more essential than ever in the current market.”
In the group’s hierarchy, Fendi has often occupied a unique but quieter position – profitable, heritage-rich, but lacking the blockbuster visibility of Dior or Louis Vuitton. Chiuri’s appointment is expected to change that dynamic.
“Now that the fur has been banished, Fendi’s ready-to-wear needs to be redefined and have a real point of view. The brief is similar to where Dior was in 2016,” Dixon said.
“It has drifted, and I’m confident Chiuri can bring that clarity, intelligence, but also a sense of fun. Fendi should be a joyful brand, something which was lost in recent years.”
Further reading: Why LVMH doubled down on Jonathan Anderson to drive Dior’s next growth chapter.