American designer Reed Krakoff has 35 years of experience in luxury fashion and jewellery and is currently serving as John Hardy’s creative chairman. He has been a strategic advisor to L Catterton since September 2022. At John Hardy, Krakoff has revitalised the brand with innovative designs and a modern interpretation of its Balinese heritage. He has previously held key roles at major luxury houses, including Tiffany & Co and Coach. Here, he discusses his creative process and the evo
evolving landscape of luxury jewellery.
Inside Retail: What initially drew you to the world of design?
Reed Krakoff: I always thought I would end up playing professional ice hockey or become a musician! But as I got older, my interest in shape and design really took over. I particularly loved industrial design which is what I believe ultimately brought into the jewellery space.
IR: Looking back at your early career with brands like Anne Klein, Ralph Lauren, and Tommy Hilfiger, what were the most valuable lessons you carried forward?
RK: Everything starts and finishes with design. You can have the most beautiful advertising, the most incredible stores or the biggest celebrity names in the world wearing your product but if the design isn’t perfect, the customer will not respond.
IR: What inspired you to join John Hardy as creative chairman, and how do you view the brand’s legacy?
RK: The brand’s most distinctive feature is its remarkable artisan community in Bali. We work with approximately 500 artisans, and our pieces begin with hand-carved wax – a technique that is becoming rare since most opt for 3D printing. These artisans possess an exceptional understanding of jewellery making. There’s a unique value in that artisanal quality; it’s something special that we cherish and strive to preserve. The idea was to take this artisanal craft know-how and look at it through this idea of modern design.
IR: Where do you draw inspiration for your designs today?
RK: I explore everything I can about the brand’s marketing, its archives, online products, and packaging. I also look for vintage styles on platforms like eBay and TheRealReal. John Hardy has an impressive archive in Bali. I study the brand to understand its customer base, take my time to reflect, and then begin sketching.
IR: How do you see the role of storytelling evolving in luxury jewellery, both in digital and physical spaces?
RK: It’s an essential component of sharing our brand history and will only continue to grow. Our luxury clients love and cherish the multiple expressions of the brand and the John Hardy story they see in our boutiques and online. The ability to virtually go into our workshops and meet our artisans allows them to celebrate the artisanal heritage that sets our brand apart.
IR: What trends do you think will shape the future of the luxury jewellery industry?
RK: For sure I could mention new materials (metals, stones, etc) but I’ve been truly impressed recently with the consumer’s knowledge and confidence in buying some of the most intricately designed and higher-priced pieces online. This for sure will push the luxury jewellery industry far beyond the traditional in-person experience and bring scale we never thought possible.
IR: What excites you most about the intersection of creativity and technology?
RK: Every season, as technology continues to expand beyond our wildest imaginations, the ability to push design boundaries is never-ending. Just when I think I’ve seen the most incredible new idea, something new comes along right behind it. I can’t even imagine what is in front of us!
IR: What is your daily routine like as a creative chairman?
RK: I work every day with the design and marketing teams as well as the retail, visual and store design teams. I love to hear client feedback on our newest designs and store experiences. Of course, as a designer, I also spend a huge amount of time sketching something in my head. My team usually knows when I’m in the “zone” because I suddenly stop returning text messages and go very quiet!
IR: Who or what has been the biggest influence on your career?
RK: My wife Delphine. Her instinct and style are my greatest inspirations. From the fashion world, I would say Tommy Hilfiger. Working for him changed my life and gave me the confidence that I can do anything.
IR: What advice would you offer to young designers looking to make their mark in the luxury sector?
RK: To take your time, watch, learn and ask questions. Working for someone else can be the greatest gift of all. Not everyone should have their own name on a label.
Further reading: ‘Effective leadership is about trust’: Kypris CEO Chase Polan.